Vịnh Bái Tử Long (Vietnam)

Three years ago I went on a typical cruise around Ha Long Bay. Great scenery, but it was too noisy and busy with boats.

This time around I headed to Bai Tu Long Bay. First stroke of luck was being with a fun group and a trilingual guide with a wicked sense of humour! Secondly, we went out on the perfect day. The sun shone, reflecting off emerald green water.

Thirdly, mass tourism has not yet got its claws into the area. The panoramic view at the cave entrance is grandiose. Time stops still, as you sit back and watch large junkboats cross the horizon. Our kayak trip was a fun-filled moment of laughter and jokes.

If there's a downside, it was the 'staged' feel of the pearl farm visit, but it's still far cry from the 'Disneyland-style' tackiness of Ha Long's 'Surprise Cave'.