I had only heard of this village by name and at first it does give the impression of a "tourist" village. However, the knick-knack sellers are not oppressing even if some houses have been transformed into boutiques in one part of the village.
Then my guide showed me the different facets of Tenganan, the first Balinese village, starting with its history, its evolution and the local handicrafts: traditional batik dyed with natural pigments. I was able to ask him a bunch of questions on their customs and day to day habits. For example: it is the "custom" to marry someone from the village with the approval of the Banjar.
Find out about visiting Tenganan during the tradition festivals in June (dependent on the village festival calendar), there is a two-day ceremony in Tenganan: cock fights with cocks dyed pink, yellow or green, virility demonstration ceremony between young bachelors, etc...